Retiro, the park Madrid treated itself to in the 17th century.

The park has its origins between 1631 and 1640, when the Count-Duke of Olivares gave land to King Philip IV for the Court's leisure. Its area varies depending on the source consulted, between 118 and 142 hectares, a disagreement still unresolved today.

History & origins

Retiro is best explored on foot or by bike, amid early-morning joggers, families out for a stroll and tourists photographing the Crystal Palace. It's the greenest neighbourhood in this guide.

Heritage & architecture

The Crystal Palace, built in 1887 as a greenhouse to display the flora and fauna of the Philippines, was designed by Ricardo Velázquez Bosco, inspired by Joseph Paxton's Crystal Palace (Hyde Park, London, 1851). It now belongs to the Reina Sofía museum, which uses it for temporary exhibitions. The Velázquez Palace, by the same architect, is another Reina Sofía exhibition space within the park.

The Monument to Alfonso XII, erected on the lake in 1902 and inaugurated in 1922, is the work of Catalan architect José Grases Riera. The great lake, built between 1634 and 1636, was the heart of the garden of the Buen Retiro Palace, used for royal water spectacles and boat rides. The Fuente del Ángel Caído (Fallen Angel Fountain), the work of Ricardo Bellver inaugurated in 1877, is one of the few sculptures in the world dedicated to Lucifer; it stands at exactly 666 metres above sea level.

Culture & living traditions

You can hire a boat for 45 minutes on the great lake. Retiro is traditionally busiest on Sundays, with families, street musicians and joggers.

Suggested itinerary

Morning · 9am–12pm: Entrance and the Crystal Palace

Enter via Puerta de Alcalá or Puerta de Felipe IV, walk to the Crystal Palace.

Afternoon · 12pm–5pm: The lake and the monument

A light picnic, a boat ride on the great lake, the Monument to Alfonso XII.

Evening · 5pm onwards: Moving on

Retiro closes up early in the evening: head to Paseo del Prado or Chueca for dinner.

Suggested itinerary, not field-tested.

Frequently asked questions